Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

2015+ TFT Cluster Retrofit Guide

Collapse
This is a sticky topic.
X
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • 2015+ TFT Cluster Retrofit Guide

    Applies To:

    - 2012-2014 Fiat 500 Abarth (works on other Fiat 500 models as well, including Pop, Lounge, 500T, etc).


    Notes:

    - Direct swap, 100% no extra wiring.
    - Flashing Odometer (fix included below).
    - Throttle position in sport mode doesn't work when the TFT Cluster is set to Abarth mode.
    - G-Force does not work in any mode.
    - Tire pressure readings will be off by 5-7psi


    There may be fixes for the last three items by swapping out the BCM to a 2015+ BCM but this is currently untested. For the tire pressure readings, this may be corrected by using a TPMS module from a 2015+ car:

    You can also edit, in MultiECUScan, the TPMS calibration settings to prevent the low pressure warnings from going off. 99% of people do not need to do this, however, if you are installing this cluster in a 500T and using 500T tire pressures which are lower than Abarth pressures due to suspension differences, etc, you may get a low tire pressure warning. To resolve it, simply use Abarth tire pressures.


    What you need to have in order to accomplish this successfully:


    - A 2015+ TFT Cluster that has lower miles or kms than your current cluster. (You can get a cluster from an American or Candian car as you can switch the units to metric/imperial and it changes the odometer as well). No issues.

    - It does not have to be an Abarth specific cluster, but it cannot be a 500e Cluster (although as BigDaddySRT tested, it works completely fine minus the 500e specific stuff)

    - MultiECUScan (Registered) software. Latest version recommended.

    - ODB2 USB (not Bluetooth or WiFi) dongle. I recommend getting:

    https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B00...?ie=UTF8&psc=1 and removing resistor 121 on the board so you can do a Proxi Alignment. (More on this below).

    - The specific colored conversion cables for the ODB2 dongle, specifically the YELLOW cable which lets us do a Proxi Alignment. Example:

    https://www.ebay.ca/sch/i.html?_osacat=0&_odkw=MultiECUScan+cables&_from=R 40&_trksid=m570.l1313&_nkw=MultiECUScan+cables&_sa cat=0

    You can find them cheaper if you scour ebay or Amazon.

    - Common sense.


    Before you connect to MES, make sure the stereo is turned ON. This will allow MES to read information from the stereo control module/blue&me if present. If you have a race car and it's removed, don't worry about it, same goes if you have an aftermarket stereo with a iDatalink or similar box.


    ODB2 Dongle: Most cheap rip off dongles like the one I mentioned above use an extra resistor on the board that prevents the Proxi Alignment from connecting. You will need to remove resistor labelled 121 on the board in order to perform the proxi alignment. The resistor can simply be ripped off with a pair of pliers or tweezers. If you have a different ODB2 dongle and run into the same problem, the resistor might be labelled as R2 instead of 121. There's a thread in the MES forums about this and hundreds of pages with pictures of various ODB2 modules with what resistor to remove. Not all will work though.

    It might just be a better idea to purchase a *modified* ODB2 dongle that indicates it is compatible with MES. They are pretty cheap.

    Ok, so now that you have a cluster and it's LOWER kilometers or miles than your current cluster, you have removed your current cluster and installed the new cluster. Everything seems to work out of the box except it might not be an Abarth cluster or, it's in a base 500 mode missing some features. Also, the odometer is flashing and doesn't match the mileage of your car.

    This is where MultiECUScan comes into play. In MultiECUScan we need to write the kilometers to the cluster and perform a Proxi Alignment. It's self explanatory, but in MES, go to the cluster section for the TFT cluster, change the kilometers to what your previous cluster had and write the changes. MAKE SURE you put in the CORRECT amount. YOU CANNOT wire the cluster to a LOWER value, it's impossible with MES. If you have messed up, there is no fix, you will need to get another cluster or install your old cluster. I cannot stress this enough.

    Once that is done, go to the Body Module screen in MES. Connect via the Proxi Alignment setting (not 595). Once connected you will see a lot of settings on the screen. These settings are read from the car modules, so you shouldn't have to change anything. Sadly, disabling the tire pressure monitoring system does not disable it so don't waste your time.

    You can enable Hazard Light Switch-on In Deceleration if you want. This WORKS on my 2014. If you are going under heavy braking, the 4 way flashers will flash for that period of time until you let off the brake. I was able to test this by accident when someone almost drove into me haha. Anyways, make sure the following is set:

    Vehicle Type: Type 11
    Display Type: Matrix/4 Lines
    Steering Wheel Type, if Abarth with Bluetooth etc: Type G/10 Buttons (Seemed to work for me). I'm sure 8 will work too.

    Everything else should be set (Gas engine, LHD, etc).

    Now, once that stuff is set, do not click on PROXI ALIGNEMENT PROCEDURE at the top the screen, first, we need to open a hidden menu in MES.


    Press this on your keyboard: CTRL ALT C


    This will open a HEX editor-like window. This is basically what is getting written to the body control modules, CTM, etc when we do the Proxi Alignment. Find Byte 65, this is the byte that controls the TFT displays.

    Here's the following displays you can change the TFT to:

    00 : This is the base 500 display. It has the crappy font from the base 500/500 sport and also features a Sport Mode. I personally do not like the font, gauge faces, drives me nuts, YMMV.

    20 : This is another display that I have yet to try.

    40 : This is the 500T display type. It features a digital turbo boost gauge (commanded boost) on the right side of the cluster in Sport Mode. I've been using this display for a little over 24 hours now and it works great.

    - If you are running this display type in your Abarth, your OEM turbo boost gauge will be "turned off" as the 500T does not have this gauge. The cluster *runs* that turbo boost gauge. It won't even light up. For those that have after market boost gauges in this spot, this may cause your aftermarket gauge to not get power or illuminate depending on how you wired it. This cluster uses the same font as the Abarth cluster. A+.

    60 : This is the Abarth display type. It features a throttle position indicator in Sport Mode which does not work, Abarth branded Start Up/Shut Down screens and G-Force, which does not work. You can simply turn off G-Force and have it display tire pressure or the radio or average Kms to get around that issue. Not a big deal, but the throttle position gauge, there is not a fix for it yet. (This is why I switched to the 500T display type).


    Note: The 2015 OEM Boost Gauge displays SPORT, not SHIFT UP like the 2014 and earlier models. In sport mode *SHIFT UP* will always be lit up on the boost gauge in Abarth mode. The solution is to replace the OEM boost gauge with a 2015 gauge (should be direct fit) or just ignore it haha.


    Ok, so to recap, CTRL ALT C, find byte 65, change that byte to the display type you want (00, 20, 40 or 60), press OK, perform the Proxi Alignment Procedure.

    This will take a minute or two. Once done, turn off the car as it says, wait 30 seconds, then start the car. You should be good to go.



    That's it. Looks complicated, but it's really not once you start looking at things. I offer no support for this or any further information and will not be responsible if you brick a control module or the cluster with the wrong byte code.

    *DO NOT USE A BLUETOOTH OR WIFI ODB2 DONGLE* as the Proxi Alignment may fail.


    To note, you can switch between any of the TFT display types whenever you wish with MES.

  • #2
    Excellent, thank you! I'm going to move a copy of this over to the tech section as well. Thank goodness you saved this.

    Comment


    • #3
      Originally posted by FCACHATADMIN(2) View Post
      Excellent, thank you! I'm going to move a copy of this over to the tech section as well. Thank goodness you saved this.
      I lost so much knowledge that I put time, my own money and effort into :-(.

      Thanks for the how to!!!

      Comment


      • #4
        Originally posted by doverosx View Post

        I lost so much knowledge that I put time, my own money and effort into :-(.

        Thanks for the how to!!!
        I know, unfortunate, but we will carry on.

        Comment


        • #5
          Thank you very much for the writeup!

          Do you have any idea if there is some setting in the cluster module for hill start?

          My hill start is not working and its turned on in the menu of the cluster.

          I updated byte 65 (which looks much better), engaged the hazard illumination on deceleration, and also disengaged the seat belt chime.

          Also - do you know if there is a way to quiet down the chimes? The turn signal noise is a lot louder in the TFT cluster.


          Comment


          • #6
            Originally posted by NYC Eng View Post
            Thank you very much for the writeup!

            Do you have any idea if there is some setting in the cluster module for hill start?

            My hill start is not working and its turned on in the menu of the cluster.

            I updated byte 65 (which looks much better), engaged the hazard illumination on deceleration, and also disengaged the seat belt chime.

            Also - do you know if there is a way to quiet down the chimes? The turn signal noise is a lot louder in the TFT cluster.


            1. If hill start is not working,I would simply disconnect the car battery for about 15 minutes then reconnect it. You'll know that a reset was done if the cluster now flashes the wrong time. See if that fixes it.

            I've never run into that issue on the cars I've swapped out.


            2. Turn signal noise, nope, that's how it is from factory. There's not a way to make it quieter. I actually like it better as it's easier to hear/notice and you don't accidentally leave it on. I can see why that might annoy some people though. Give it a week and you'll prob get used to it. Haha.

            Comment


            • #7
              I want to do this so badly. Have been looking for a 15 cluster with <5k miles for what feels like years. If anyone can source one, I'll pay a premium, please lmk.

              Comment

              Working...
              X